Turbo Removal and Install

1 day to remove and 1 day to install

extension 3/8 and 1/2
Additional things I needed from local auto parts store:
27MM socket
1/2 extension
Universal swival joint 3/8 – mine broke
Coolant/Antifreeze 2 jugs incase
Silicone RV
12MM socket – mine cracked
Oil filter
Synthetic oil

Turbo Removal
take off intake
remove cross bars in engine bay
remove body molding on left and right of trunk
unplug mbc from actuator and compressor
take out intercooler pipes
take off hot pipe
take off coolant lines to turbo with the 2 10mm bolts.  put tray under car to catch coolant leaks
unbolt 27mm oil bolt
remove all hoses that maybe connected to the turbo
drain oil, remove oil filter and dip stick
Remove oxygen sensor on downpipe

Underneath the Car
Remove b-pipe.  later on it will get in the way of removing downpipe
Remove downpipe holder
Unscrew oil line bolts and remove bracket for oil lines
loosen (do not remove) 4 bolts that bolt the turbo to manifold
with the turbo loose wiggle it around to get the angle needed to loosen bolts on downpipe
drain oil

Above the Car
tie a rope to the turbo and secure the rope to an object so it can hold the turbo up.  Turbo can be heavy
Remove remaining bolts on downpipe and remove from turbo
Remove bolts and carefully take out turbo

Turbo Install
Test waste gate actuator by using air compressor to blow are into the actuator hose

Under the Car
Screw in loosely the oil pressure tubing (black metal tubing)
Connect 4 bolts to turbo loosely.
Attach downpipe and tighten.
Attach downpipe mount (the star trek looking symbol with 3 holes)
Attach b-pipe
Was suppose to install engine to turbo support bracket but the holes did not match properly.

Above the Car
Attach coolant pipes (silver looking thing).  Use RV silicone seal and gasket to ensure tight seal
Reinstalled hoses (use soap water or some lubricant to make it easier to fit hoses.  This also reduces the chances of tearing a hose), MBC (clock wise to increase boost, counter clock wise to lower boost), tightened all bolts
Fill car with coolant – do no install everything yet.  This will test to ensure there is nothing leaking.  Filled up oil and new oil filter
Connect hot pipe, air intake, zip ties, intercooler pipes
Changes spark plugs and spark plug wires

Burping cooling system
Fill up coolant until full.  Make sure no leaks under car.  Do not put cap back on
Turn on car and let engine run and keep an eye on temperature gauge.  Coolant system will bubble and burp.  I had to run the car for about 20-30 min.  Squeeze the coolant hose that is by the intercooler gently to get out any air pockets

Posted in MR2

Broken speedometer

Now, if your speedo stopped working it is most likely the rear cable. Here is how to check whether is is the front speedo cable or the rear one.

Step 1.) Take off the rear most underbody panel and you can pry out the speedo cable:

Step 2.) Remove the rubber boot covering the two speedo cables joining and seperate them by holding the rear cable with a 12mm wrench and pull the front off.
Step 3.) Attach a drill to the front cable and spin it counter clockwise and see if the speedo needle jumps or not. If the speedo needle jumps then the problem is with the rear cable, if the speedo cable doesn’t jump then the problem is with the front cable. I had a problem with my rear speedo cable.

Note: The car doesn’t have to be on to spin the cable.

Step 4.) Remove rear speedo cable (if that is the problem), I found laying under the exhaust with my head towards the passengers side gave me the best access to the tranny connector. There is a 10mm bolt holding it down, it is located to the right (pass. side) of the actual speedo cable.

Step 5.) After removing the 10mm with just a normal socket+ratchet you can twist out the speedo assembly, after its loose you can pull it out, which shouldn’t require very much force.

Step 6.) Inspect the rear assembly and see what the problem, in my instance the inner speedo cable had snapped. The cable is also being held on by 2 white brackets located by the drivers side motor mount and underneath behind the rear underbody panel.

Step 7.) Buy a new speedo cable and re-install, I’d start with putting the speedo assembly in the tranny first and then pull the cable up from the top of the engine bay

Here is the routing the speedo cable:

Speedo gear -> Cruise control speed sensor -> Speedo cable, rear -> Speedo cable, front -> Speedometer, instrument cluster

 

http://www.Rockauto.com

Y882 part number for the front cable.
Y849 part number for the rear cable.

Shooting for the moon

On October 9, 2009, NASA will launch a mission to fire two rockets to the moon.  The first moon will cause an impact to the moon.  When the twin crafts hit the lunar surface at around 6,000 mph, NASA expects “plumes of moon dust — perhaps full of ice — (to soar) 6.2 miles high above the moon’s Cabeus crater.”  We should anticipate this too happen at 7:30am EST.   It is anticipated that crash No. 1 to kick up some 350 tons of material as it slams into the crater floor at roughly twice the speed of a bullet. Once the dust settles, the impact should leave a crater some 65 feet across and 13 feet deep. Crash No. 2 should throw an additional 100 tons or upward and carve a crater perhaps 30 feet across and several feet deep.

This mission is going to cost $79M USD tax payer dollars!!

I think it would be really amazing to see what we can find underneath the surface of the moon.  What if we find another colony that lives under the moon??

MR2 turbo boost

The MR2 turbo stock has a fairly conservative setting for enabling some spirited driving with its turbo.  There is a work around that allows you to get some fairly decent horsepower gains by playing around with the turbo boost.  I’ve been doing quite a bit of research on how to adjust the boost, and there are a couple of options being either a manual or electronic boost control.

I wanted just a simple and cheap way to play around with the boost.  In doing so, what I needed was a way to see how much psi boost the car was running.  Thus picked up a mechanical boost gauge.  It was pretty easy to install.  I put the boost gauge on the pillar mount.  I pulled the vacuum hose from the pillar and under the carpet, then into the engine bay.  I also had to route the MBC from the compressor to the wastegate.  Plain stock, the boost is at 7 psi.  I played around with the boost, and had to make minor increments where turning the MBC clockwise will increase the turbo.

It’s been quite a joy ride feeling how much quicker the car is when you increase the boost.  From what some of the other MR2 experts say, 15psi is probably the max to safely run on a stock car, so that’s what my car’s at now.

MR2 Berk Exhaust

Berk has this 3″ diameter cat back dual exhaust system that I picked up to get a few more horses out of the MR2.  The exhaust looks really nicely packaged.

I was looking to get the exhaust put in by a shop instead of having to do it myself.  The message boards, and the MR2 BGB has some general guidelines that when I read it thought it would be fairly easy

First impressions of the exhaust:

Noise:  It’s definately louder than the stock exhaust system.  At idle it has a nice low humm.  At half throttle when cruising it’s noticeably louder, but not to the point where you can’t have a normal conversation with the passenger.  Gets pretty loud when you stomp on at wide open throttle.

Performance:  I can feel it’s more responsive and feel it pull much quicker.  Haven’t had much time to really put the exhaust through its paces.  But from the manufacturer’s website, it says HP power gains from 20-50WHP vs stock.

Appearance:  Very nice fit and appearance.  Tucks in nicely and the exhaust tips are polished.

The MKII

The Toyota MR2 SW20 turbo is a pretty sweet looking car considering it’s been around since 1991.  As some people call it, the poor man’s Ferrari.  MR2 = mid engine rear wheel drive 2 seater.

I looked around all over the web to find a 1991 turbo T-top that was relatively stock.  There is a wealth of resources on the web talking about how to build up the engine, even plenty of DIY mechanics.

For a car that’s been around for 18 years it still has that appeal for a double take, at least in my eyes.