Carbon Mountain Bike build

Started assembling a list of parts needed for my mountain bike build:

Part Description Actual Weight (grams)
Frame 17.5″ carbon fiber 1320
Fork  Carbon fiber 512
Left Crank Arm 223
Right Crank Arm 480
Cassette 484
Rear derailleur 329
Chain 260
Bottom Crank 67
Shifter 149
Rear Caliper and hand brake 321
Frong Caliper and hand brake 275
Rims front iPlay 29inch MTB bicycle wheels carbon hookless Wheelset Thru Axle 30mm wide Mountain Bike Carbon 29er Wheels with Novatec hubs 766
Rims Rear 887
Tires 1230g *2
Handle bar
Seat Post
Rotors 160/160 mm
Component Shimano DEORE SLX M7000 1×11 Complete Groupset
Crank Arm 170MM/32T
Rear Shifter
Rear Deraller
Cassett 11-42T
Bottom Bracket English Thread
Headset 126
Seat Post Clamp 32
Thru Axle 62
Total (grams) 6293
Total (lbs) 13.8446

NoTubes Tire Sealant, 16-Ounce
Finish Line Premium Grease made with Teflon Fluoropolymer, 3.5 Ounce
Finish Line Fiber Grip Carbon Fiber Bicycle Assembly Gel, 1.75-Ounce Tube

S7 facelift rear lights. Dynamic/sweeping signal

$599 rear led tails from eBay

Modifications to lights:
– connectors have a tab that does not fit into the OEM connector.  took a flat head screw driver and heated it up over the oven and melted the tab off.  All 4 connectors to the OEM connectors will need to be melted off.

– splice into the 2 yellow wires on the inner and outer lights.  Use about 15 ft of stranded wire which will need to be wired from the inner to outer lights through the rear hatch.
– solder the 15 ft stranded wire with the 2 yellow wires that have been spliced.
– Use tape or insulation to protect the connection and wrap it up in cloth tape.

Removing the lights and hatch trim and pillar mounts
Outer tail lights:
– follow instructions here

Inner tail lights:
– remove hatch trim by first taking off the 2 screws by opening the middle section
– pull on trim and it will pop off.  From here you should be able to see the rear tail lights and remove the connector
– lower the rear hatch, and raise the spoiler.  Under the spoiler you should use a plastic trim removal tool to pry up the two circlular covers where you can access two screws that need to be removed


Channel | Old | New

195 | 134 | 133
196 | 166 | 165
197 | 6 | 12
198 | 38 | 44
199 | | 51201
200 | 51233 | 51233
201 | 51201 | 51201
202 | 51233 | 51233
203 | 9 | 12
204 | | 44
205 | 13 | 13
206 | | 45
207 | 6 | 5
208 | 38 | 37
209 | | 51219
210 | | 51251

S7 Rear Brake pad change

1. settings to raise car
2. chalk car
3. turn on car
4. attach vagcom vcds
5. instructions from Ross-tech:
Basic Setting

Do not perform any of these Basic Settings while the brakes are disassembled! Opening, closing, function tests, and otherwise cycling the Electronic Parking brakes should only be done with the pads and calipers properly installed on the rotors.
Please follow the procedures EXACTLY. There’s a reason for every step. If you skip any prerequisites or other steps here, you are likely to experience “issues” for which no documented resolutions exist, in which case we will not be able to help you resolve them.
It is strongly recommended to run a full Auto-Scan first thing to check for any preexisting faults! There have been several reports of repair shops damaging the Electronic Parking Brake System when trying to do rear brakes, but not telling the customer and then sending the car out the door.

Open Rear Parking Brake


Connect a battery charger as per repair manual.
Cycle the Parking Brake ON, then OFF first.

[53 – Parking Brake]
[Basic Settings – 04]
Select Start lining change mode
[Go!] to activate the Basic Setting.
The brake calipers will then open, allowing the pads to be changed.
After the result of Finished Correctly appears click [Stop]
[Done, Go Back]
[Close Controller, Go Back – 06]

Turn ignition off and leave battery charger connected.

The caliper pistons do not move back into the caliper, they must be pushed in using a hand tool. Fault code 721152 – Brake pad replacement mode active will be stored, this is normal.
Close Rear Parking Brake


Connect a battery charger as per repair manual.

[53 – Parking Brake]
[Basic Settings – 04]
Select End lining change mode
[Go!] to activate the Basic Setting.
The brake calipers will then close.
After the result of Finished Correctly appears click [Stop]
[Done, Go Back]
[Close Controller, Go Back – 06]

Turn ignition off

The LED in the parking brake switch and the warning lamp in the instrument cluster will probably continue to blink rapidly in addition to Fault code 721152 – Brake pad replacement mode active. This should stop after cycling the Parking Brake ON, then OFF again using the switch in the vehicle while holding the brake pedal AFTER all rear brake components are reassembled.

We do NOT have an official replacement procedure for this Parking Brake system at this time.

We received detailed feedback from two customers that had success using VCDS to configure new and used control module part number: 4H0 907 801 E
2012 RoW market A6. internal ref: E?ID=270368
2011 NAR market A8. internal ref: ST?ID=39737

15mm wrench and 13mm socket to remove two bolts holding caliper
loosen brake line so enough room to take off caliper
unplug brake sensor
take off caliper
remove brake pads
place new brake pads with shims

Audi S7 Oil Change

Getting everything setup:
1. Raise the suspension to get as much clearance as possible when going up the ramp and working under the car. Put wheel chaulks at the rear of the car.
2. Align the ramps with the front wheels, and put some cement blocks or anything heavy to prevent the ramps from sliding on the garage floor
3. Engage the emergency parking brake
4. Open the trunk by pulling the lever in the footwell beside the door

Tools and parts needed:

a. Socket wrenches 1/4″, 3/8″, 1/2″
b. T30 Torx bit
c. 12 Point XZN
d. triple square 12 point bit. size 8
e. Hex bit adaptor size 6mm
f. 34mm socket to remove filter housing
g. OEM filter replacement kit part number 079 198 405 D
h. full synthetic 0w40. 9 quarts to fill up
i. Crush ring N 013 815 7 VAG for drain plugRemove the panel underneath the car.  Use the hex bit to remove the first drain by the driver sideRemove the drain plug with the hex bit from the oil filter canister

Use the small o ring from the oil filter kit to replace the drain plug for the oil filter canister torque drain plugs to 21 ft-lb or 252 inch lb

Using the 32mm socket, remove the oil filter canister and drain oil.  After removing the oil filter canister replace the oil filter and rubber o ring provided with the oil filter kit.

Tighten oil filter cannister 25 Nm

Remove the oil filter cap, and pour 9 quarts of oil.

Perform systems – reset service interval.

Warm up the engine and check the oil level using the MMI interface

Wheel removal

IMG_4202aRemoving wheel stuff needed:
1. Long pipe to have leverage with #2 for those stubborn lug nuts that are tough to loosen
2. Lug wrench
3. Scissor jack that’s placed under the manufacturer’s guidance for safe jacking points under the car
4. Power socket wrench to quickly lift the car. When you don’t have much space for those hydraulic jacks this is a great tool to have.
5. A pin to use with #4 to insert/remove socket. I used an allen key, but you can use a nail.
6. 17mm deep socket to remove lug nuts
7. Wheel lock key (if needed)
8. Pin that’s available in the trunk of the car to remove the hub cap #9. Use this pin to insert into the little hole in #9 and gently pull out

When putting the wheel back on, tighten the lug nuts to manufacturer specs which should be in the user guide.  For this car I need to use 90 ft-lbs  It’s recommended to use a torque wrench.

OBDII scanner for 91 MR2 Turbo with Caldina swap

Had the MR2 swapped with a JDM Caldina engine.  With this swap I was looking for a way to connect an OBDII scanner and see what’s going on.  ELM327 Wi-fi interface for OBDII which cost $8.  The only workable option to connect with an app on the iPhone was to use wifi.  Apparently the blue tooth version of the ELM327 is not compatable with the iPhone.

From the trunk of the MR2, I removed all of the carpet to access the ecu.  From there you want to connect to the following pinsobd2plugPin 5 (signal ground), 7 (ISO K line), 16 (Battery +ve)

I downloaded a free app called EOBD-FACILE to read the outputs of the OBD II.



Basement Project

Looking to install a bathroom in the basement.  After looking at some reference materials and tips looks like there are a few things I’ll need to prepare for.  Before doing any digging it’s best to call Miss Utility

Space Design:
The bathroom area will be 5’x7′ and probably utilized the area under the staircase for storage.  It’s going to be pretty tight but it should work.  Not sure if I want to put in a pocket door or make the door swing out as opposed to swing in. 5x7.large

Floor Plan

Check if there is moisture in the walls

Seal the mudsill by applying caulk to preven entry for crawling insects.

Seal furnace ducts with duct tape

Exterior Apron insulation is an option.

Insulate foundation walls on the exterior side (and not the interior)
whenever you can. The easiest way to accomplish this is by installing
insulation in the apron area only, so you do not have to excavate all the
way to the bottom of the wall. By adding a layer of horizontal insulation in
the bottom of the trench, you can realize at least 70 percent of the energy
savings of insulating the whole wall,
Because you will be adding width to the foundation wall by installing
exterior insulation, you will need to install flashing to cover the top of the
insulation layer and whatever protective wall surface you cover it with.

Will need to dig out 18″ x 24″ wide trench next to the wall being insulated.
Coat the wall with a layer of bituminous coating to help create another layer of moisture protection for the basement
Line the trench with a 2″ thick layer of course sand, and then strips of rigid foam insulation.  The sand should slope away from the house slightly and the insulation strips should butt up against the foundation wall
Install drop edge flashing to protect the tops of the insulation board and new siding.
Bond strips of rigid foam insulation board to the foundation wall using a panel adhesive that is compatible with foam.
Install siding or faux stone panels.

Paint walls

Vent to outside
Vent hood

Frame room

Rough-ins: Run DWV (drain, waste, and vent) and water and agas supply pipes.  Install electrical boxes and run wiring.


Changing brake pads on Toyota Highlander

Here are my the instructions on how to replace the brake pads on the Toyota Highlander.   Note that these are just my instructions and is no means the only safest way to perform this maintenance. Consult with a professional mechanic to ensure the proper steps and safety measures are followed.
This brake pad change was performed for the first time since purchasing the car brand-new. The car has 48,000 miles on it.

The first thing you need to do is take off the two bolts to the plastic panel underneath the front of the car which will give you access to the checkpoint.

Jack up the car slightly and start loosening the lugnuts on one of the wheels.  Then jack up the car high enough so that there is clearance between the bottom of the tire and the floor. I think about 1 inch of clearance is good enough. From this point support vehicle by putting jackstands underneath the car. After this is completed take off all five lug nuts and remove the tire.
The next step is to take off the caliber. There will be two bolts near the back of the caliber that you will need to remove. Now take a piece of rope and tie the counter to the suspension of the car while removing it fall. Make sure you do not pinch the brake lines.

Remove the two V-shaped springs and take note of their location and fit. Next you want to remove the brake pads just by sliding in a screwdriver or even using your fingers to pry out the pads.

Remove the metal fittings from the original brake pads and place them on the new brake pads in the same orientation. Then apply some break grease only around the ends of the brake pads  where there will be contact and movement.

Place the brake pads back into the break housing in the same orientation as you took them out. Then take the V springs and place them in the brake pads to match the origin all orientation.
With a C clamp you will want to come press the brake caliper pistons and also use a 2 x 4 to help with the compression to avoid scratching or damaging the pistons.

After the Pistons I’ve been fully compressed remove the C clamp and 2 x 4 and apply grease to the Pistons. Only put a tiny amount. Remove the string tied to the caliper and place the caliper over the brake pads.

Insert and tighten the caliper bolts that were removed previously.

MR2 mechanical to electrical speedo conversion

USDM 91-92 Mechanical Cluster to 93+ JDM Conversion

By hmong337

Are you sick of replacing those unreliable mechanical speed sensors? Or, maybe you got a JDM cluster with your 93+ JDM engine/transmission/clip and don’t want to deal with finding a mechanical speed sensor? I’ve got the perfect solution for you! Plus, this write-up is to finally lay this topic to rest.

Astonishingly, this conversion cost me as much as buying a used mechanical speed sensor. So not only is it a great alternative, but also a cost effective solution. 93+ JDM electronic clusters sell for barely anything; as do the electronic speed sensors. So if when your mechanical unit dies, you’re better off converting to electronic. It’s a lot more reliable and smoother too!

Be done with this:
-Cracked speedometer sensor gear shaft

-Worn out sub-assembly pin

The items you will need are:
-93+ JDM electronic cluster
-Electronic cluster plugs (Grab an extra one if you can. You may need to salvage pins from it later)
-Electronic speed sensor w/ its pigtail (female plug)

Step 1: Install your electronic speed sensor into the transmission. Here is an install link: (big thanks to: The homepage of Stephen Mason ( His work can be found here: MR2 Speedometer sub-assembly replacement How-To (

***The link is for installing a mechanical unit. But it’s no different for the electronic unit.

Step 2: Cut off the triangle plug that went into your old mechanical speed sensor and splice on your new 93+ electronic plug/pigtail. There should be three wires.

91-92: 93+ JDM
white/black (ground) ——> brown (ground)
black/yellow (power) ——> black/yellow (power)
violet (speed signal) ——-> yellow/red (speed signal)

Here is a picture of the 91-92 triangle plug.

Here is a picture of the 93+ JDM electronic plug.

Step 3: Remove your old mechanical cluster. Follow this link: (big thanks to MR2OC member: fosley)

Now, let’s compare clusters

***NOTE: If your JDM cluster didn’t come with plugs, you can find them from Toyota Camry’s of 93-96 and 97-2000. I think the V6 Camry’s of 97-2000 have all three plugs but I’m not 100% sure. I was lucky my JDM cluster came with plugs. But it’s not a big deal. You can find all three at junkyards pretty easily. While you’re there, make sure you grab an extra plug to salvage pins from. Anyways, here are the part numbers:

90980-11114 blue plug “B”
90980-11115 brown plug “A”
90980-11116 gray plug “C”

Step 4: For the JDM unit, you’re going to have to swap the mounting brackets over from your USDM unit. They are different as the JDM uses RHD brackets and the USDM uses LHD brackets. See here:

Now is the perfect time to do an LED light bulb conversion. I got four of these for like $4 shipped on Ebay. I highly recommend these.

The stock turbo gauge is a waste of space. So, I went ahead and swapped my NA volt-meter to the 93+ JDM cluster. These are the pins/screws you’re going to have to jump in order to get your volt-meter to work. (Big thanks to 5sfeTurbo.Com: MR2 | Celica | Camry | Turbo | Toyota | 2.0 | 2.2 | 5SFE, 3SGTE Information ( You can find his work here 5sfeTurbo.Com: MR2 | Celica | Camry | Turbo | Toyota | 2.0 | 2.2 | 5SFE, 3SGTE Information (

Just for kicks, have you ever seen a non-turbo, turbo cluster?

Step 5: The 91-92 harness does not have a wire for 93+ JDM B8 “vehicle speed pulse generator”. If your car has cruise control, you’re in luck! If your car does not have cruise control, you’re going to have to “hardwire”. That means finding a ground, a power source, running the speed signal wire all the way into the cabin, then to the back of your cluster from the electronic speed sensor at the transmission.

But for you cruise control guys, here is what you do. Find plug “IE3” at the driver’s side kick panel. On “IE3” locate “Pin 6”. The wire should be purple/white. This wire contains the speed signal that you need for the “vehicle speed pulse generator” JDM B8.

Here is another look at the whole JDM B8 wire tap:

Here is the wire that I brought up from “IE3 Pin6” to JDM B8

Step 6: Now on to the meat of the conversion. The wire splicing! Just because I’m a nice guy, I took all these schematics and condensed it into a nice and easy to understand worksheet. You can download it here: Mr2 Cluster Conversion.xlsx – – online file sharing and storage – download (

Here’s a closer look at the back of the 93+ JDM cluster:

93+ JDM Plug A: ***Notice how “A10” is empty? We’ll get to that later…

93+JDM Plug B:

93+ JDM Plug C:

The empty “A10” spot on the JDM plug is the cruise control indicator light. However, the JDM’s did not come with cruise control so they didn’t pin for it. Oddly enough, they still came with the indicator light. So, we’re going to have to pin that spot for our USDM cruise indicator to work. Hopefully you grabbed an extra plug from the junkyard to salvage some pins from. This is where they will be needed. If your USDM did not come with cruise, you can skip this step.

Also, the JDM’s did not come with air bags (not until 97-98, I think???) so we’re going to improvise here. They don’t have an “air bag” indicator light either so I went ahead and used the “hot muffler” light on the JDM cluster. This will now be your “air bag” indicator light. Looks funky, but I love it.

I will say that I am unsure on the “fog light” indicator issue as I don’t have fog lights. But according to what others have done, they spliced JDM B4 (fog light indicator – red) to the fog relay at the front fuse box in the frunk. I’m not 100% sure on how it’s done, but all I know is that you’re going to have to run a wire into the frunk fuse box for a tap somewhere to get the “fog light” indicator to work. Most likely it will be the fog light relay, but don’t quote me on that. It shouldn’t be too hard to figure out.

Also with this conversion, your hazard button will now blink the “high beam” indicator light instead of both left and right turn signals simultaneously. Hopefully that isn’t a big deal to you.

Moving along…

JDM Plug “A” being disassembled to be pinned for A10 “cruise control”:

Since my car doesn’t have ABS, I took the pin from C9  and moved it to A10

***NOTE: I’ve already pinned it in the pictures but I disassembled the plug again for photo purposes.

VOILA! We’re now pinned for cruise control.

Here are the 91-92 USDM plugs:
***NOTE, the 5 longest wires that are laid flat are NOT used.

For a wiring novice, it looks pretty intimidating! But it’s not all that bad (especially now that I’ve made the conversion spreadsheet for you!). Wiring is not really my forte but I managed to get it done pretty easily.

From this:

To this:

To this:

And that’s it! Just verify that your cluster is working 100% before you put everything back together.