Shoyu Ramen Broth Recipe

Ingredients

  1. Kombu dashi and tare:
    • 2 pieces dried kombu
    • 1/2 cup reduced-sodium soy sauce
    • 2 tablespoons dry sake
    • 1 tablespoon mirin
  2. Pork and stock:
    • 1 1/2 pounds boneless pork shoulder
    • Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper
    • 2 tablespoons vegetable oil
    • 2 pounds chicken necks, backs, and/or wings
    • 1 pound pork spareribs
    • 2 bunches scallions, chopped
    • 2 carrots, peeled, cut into pieces
    • 1 head of garlic, halved horizontally
    • 1 1″ piece ginger, peeled, sliced
  3. Ramen and garnishes:
    • 6 5-ounce packages fresh thin and wavy ramen noodles (or six 3-ounce packages dried)
    • 1/2 cup menma (fermented bamboo shoots)
    • 6 scallions, thinly sliced

Preparation

  1. Two days ahead
    1. MAKE KOMBU DASHI AND TARE
      The stock’s complexity comes from two elements: kombu dashi (a broth) and tare (a soybased mixture).* For the dashi, combine kombu and 4 quarts cold water in a large bowl. Cover and let sit at room temperature at least 8 hours and up to 12 hours. For the tare, combine soy sauce, sake, and mirin in a small bowl; cover and chill.
  2. One day ahead
    1. PREP PORK SHOULDER
      Season pork shoulder with salt and pepper. Roll up and tie with kitchen twine at 2″ intervals. (This helps keep the meat intact while cooking and makes for round, compact slices.).
    2. COOK PORK SHOULDER AND MAKE STOCK
      Heat oil in a large heavy pot (at least 8 quarts) over medium-high heat. Cook pork shoulder, turning, until brown all over, 10-12 minutes. Add chicken, spareribs, scallions, carrots, garlic, ginger, and bonito flakes. Add kombu from dashi. Add as much kombu dashi as will fit in pot once liquid is boiling (reserve remaining dashi). Bring to a boil, reduce heat, and simmer, skimming the surface occasionally and adding remaining dashi as liquid reduces, until pork shoulder is tender and stock has reduced to about 2 quarts, 2 1/2-3 hours.
    3. CHILL PORK SHOULDER AND STOCK
      Remove pork shoulder from stock and let cool. Wrap tightly in plastic and chill until ready to use. (Chilling pork will make meat easier to slice.) Strain stock through a fine-mesh sieve into another large pot or a large bowl or container; discard solids (including ribs and chicken). Cover and chill.
  3. Day of
    1. SLICE PORK
      Remove string and thinly slice pork; cover and set aside.
    2. REHEAT STOCK AND COOK NOODLES
      When ready to serve, bring stock to a simmer; it should be very hot.
    3. At the same time, cook noodles in a large pot of boiling water according to package directions until al dente; drain (no need to salt the water, as ramen noodles contain more salt than pasta).

S7 Rear Brake pad change

1. settings to raise car
2. chalk car
3. turn on car
4. attach vagcom vcds
5. instructions from Ross-tech:
Basic Setting
Caution!

Do not perform any of these Basic Settings while the brakes are disassembled! Opening, closing, function tests, and otherwise cycling the Electronic Parking brakes should only be done with the pads and calipers properly installed on the rotors.
Please follow the procedures EXACTLY. There’s a reason for every step. If you skip any prerequisites or other steps here, you are likely to experience “issues” for which no documented resolutions exist, in which case we will not be able to help you resolve them.
It is strongly recommended to run a full Auto-Scan first thing to check for any preexisting faults! There have been several reports of repair shops damaging the Electronic Parking Brake System when trying to do rear brakes, but not telling the customer and then sending the car out the door.

Open Rear Parking Brake

Prerequisites:

Connect a battery charger as per repair manual.
Cycle the Parking Brake ON, then OFF first.

[Select]
[53 – Parking Brake]
[Basic Settings – 04]
Select Start lining change mode
[Go!] to activate the Basic Setting.
The brake calipers will then open, allowing the pads to be changed.
After the result of Finished Correctly appears click [Stop]
[Done, Go Back]
[Close Controller, Go Back – 06]

Turn ignition off and leave battery charger connected.

The caliper pistons do not move back into the caliper, they must be pushed in using a hand tool. Fault code 721152 – Brake pad replacement mode active will be stored, this is normal.
Close Rear Parking Brake

Prerequisites:

Connect a battery charger as per repair manual.

[Select]
[53 – Parking Brake]
[Basic Settings – 04]
Select End lining change mode
[Go!] to activate the Basic Setting.
The brake calipers will then close.
After the result of Finished Correctly appears click [Stop]
[Done, Go Back]
[Close Controller, Go Back – 06]

Turn ignition off

The LED in the parking brake switch and the warning lamp in the instrument cluster will probably continue to blink rapidly in addition to Fault code 721152 – Brake pad replacement mode active. This should stop after cycling the Parking Brake ON, then OFF again using the switch in the vehicle while holding the brake pedal AFTER all rear brake components are reassembled.
Replacement

We do NOT have an official replacement procedure for this Parking Brake system at this time.

We received detailed feedback from two customers that had success using VCDS to configure new and used control module part number: 4H0 907 801 E
2012 RoW market A6. internal ref: E?ID=270368
2011 NAR market A8. internal ref: ST?ID=39737

15mm wrench and 13mm socket to remove two bolts holding caliper
loosen brake line so enough room to take off caliper
unplug brake sensor
take off caliper
remove brake pads
place new brake pads with shims

Audi S7 Oil Change

Getting everything setup:
1. Raise the suspension to get as much clearance as possible when going up the ramp and working under the car. Put wheel chaulks at the rear of the car.
2. Align the ramps with the front wheels, and put some cement blocks or anything heavy to prevent the ramps from sliding on the garage floor
3. Engage the emergency parking brake
4. Open the trunk by pulling the lever in the footwell beside the door

Tools and parts needed:

a. Socket wrenches 1/4″, 3/8″, 1/2″
b. T30 Torx bit
c. 12 Point XZN
d. triple square 12 point bit. size 8
e. Hex bit adaptor size 6mm
f. 34mm socket to remove filter housing
g. OEM filter replacement kit part number 079 198 405 D
h. full synthetic 0w40. 9 quarts to fill up
i. Crush ring N 013 815 7 VAG for drain plugRemove the panel underneath the car.  Use the hex bit to remove the first drain by the driver sideRemove the drain plug with the hex bit from the oil filter canister

Use the small o ring from the oil filter kit to replace the drain plug for the oil filter canister torque drain plugs to 21 ft-lb or 252 inch lb

Using the 32mm socket, remove the oil filter canister and drain oil.  After removing the oil filter canister replace the oil filter and rubber o ring provided with the oil filter kit.

Tighten oil filter cannister 25 Nm

Remove the oil filter cap, and pour 9 quarts of oil.

Perform systems – reset service interval.

Warm up the engine and check the oil level using the MMI interface

Wheel removal

IMG_4202aRemoving wheel stuff needed:
1. Long pipe to have leverage with #2 for those stubborn lug nuts that are tough to loosen
2. Lug wrench
3. Scissor jack that’s placed under the manufacturer’s guidance for safe jacking points under the car
4. Power socket wrench to quickly lift the car. When you don’t have much space for those hydraulic jacks this is a great tool to have.
5. A pin to use with #4 to insert/remove socket. I used an allen key, but you can use a nail.
6. 17mm deep socket to remove lug nuts
7. Wheel lock key (if needed)
8. Pin that’s available in the trunk of the car to remove the hub cap #9. Use this pin to insert into the little hole in #9 and gently pull out

When putting the wheel back on, tighten the lug nuts to manufacturer specs which should be in the user guide.  For this car I need to use 90 ft-lbs  It’s recommended to use a torque wrench.

MR2 mechanical to electrical speedo conversion

USDM 91-92 Mechanical Cluster to 93+ JDM Conversion

By hmong337

Are you sick of replacing those unreliable mechanical speed sensors? Or, maybe you got a JDM cluster with your 93+ JDM engine/transmission/clip and don’t want to deal with finding a mechanical speed sensor? I’ve got the perfect solution for you! Plus, this write-up is to finally lay this topic to rest.

Astonishingly, this conversion cost me as much as buying a used mechanical speed sensor. So not only is it a great alternative, but also a cost effective solution. 93+ JDM electronic clusters sell for barely anything; as do the electronic speed sensors. So if when your mechanical unit dies, you’re better off converting to electronic. It’s a lot more reliable and smoother too!

Be done with this:
-Cracked speedometer sensor gear shaft
http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l107/hmong337/MR2%20Electric%20Cluster%20Conversion/IMG327.jpg

-Worn out sub-assembly pin
http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l107/hmong337/MR2%20Electric%20Cluster%20Conversion/IMG329.jpg

The items you will need are:
-93+ JDM electronic cluster
-Electronic cluster plugs (Grab an extra one if you can. You may need to salvage pins from it later)
-Electronic speed sensor w/ its pigtail (female plug)

Step 1: Install your electronic speed sensor into the transmission. Here is an install link: (big thanks to: The homepage of Stephen Mason (http://www.stephenmason.com). His work can be found here: MR2 Speedometer sub-assembly replacement How-To (http://stephenmason.com/cars/mr2speedo.html))

***The link is for installing a mechanical unit. But it’s no different for the electronic unit.

Step 2: Cut off the triangle plug that went into your old mechanical speed sensor and splice on your new 93+ electronic plug/pigtail. There should be three wires.

91-92: 93+ JDM
white/black (ground) ——> brown (ground)
black/yellow (power) ——> black/yellow (power)
violet (speed signal) ——-> yellow/red (speed signal)

Here is a picture of the 91-92 triangle plug.
http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l107/hmong337/MR2%20Electric%20Cluster%20Conversion/IMG276.jpg

Here is a picture of the 93+ JDM electronic plug.
http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l107/hmong337/MR2%20Electric%20Cluster%20Conversion/IMG334.jpg

Step 3: Remove your old mechanical cluster. Follow this link: (big thanks to MR2OC member: fosley)
http://www.mr2.com/forums/mk2-interior-stereo-modifications/Toyota-MR2-29633-how-replace-gauge-cluster-bulbs.html

Now, let’s compare clusters
http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l107/hmong337/MR2%20Electric%20Cluster%20Conversion/IMG280.jpg

http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l107/hmong337/MR2%20Electric%20Cluster%20Conversion/IMG289.jpg

***NOTE: If your JDM cluster didn’t come with plugs, you can find them from Toyota Camry’s of 93-96 and 97-2000. I think the V6 Camry’s of 97-2000 have all three plugs but I’m not 100% sure. I was lucky my JDM cluster came with plugs. But it’s not a big deal. You can find all three at junkyards pretty easily. While you’re there, make sure you grab an extra plug to salvage pins from. Anyways, here are the part numbers:

90980-11114 blue plug “B”
90980-11115 brown plug “A”
90980-11116 gray plug “C”

Step 4: For the JDM unit, you’re going to have to swap the mounting brackets over from your USDM unit. They are different as the JDM uses RHD brackets and the USDM uses LHD brackets. See here:
http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l107/hmong337/MR2%20Electric%20Cluster%20Conversion/IMG284.jpg

Now is the perfect time to do an LED light bulb conversion. I got four of these for like $4 shipped on Ebay. I highly recommend these.
http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l107/hmong337/MR2%20Electric%20Cluster%20Conversion/IMG288.jpg

The stock turbo gauge is a waste of space. So, I went ahead and swapped my NA volt-meter to the 93+ JDM cluster. These are the pins/screws you’re going to have to jump in order to get your volt-meter to work. (Big thanks to 5sfeTurbo.Com: MR2 | Celica | Camry | Turbo | Toyota | 2.0 | 2.2 | 5SFE, 3SGTE Information (http://www.5sfeturbo.com). You can find his work here 5sfeTurbo.Com: MR2 | Celica | Camry | Turbo | Toyota | 2.0 | 2.2 | 5SFE, 3SGTE Information (http://5sfeturbo.com/Gauge_Cluster.aspx))
http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l107/hmong337/MR2%20Electric%20Cluster%20Conversion/IMG286.jpg

http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l107/hmong337/MR2%20Electric%20Cluster%20Conversion/IMG287.jpg

Just for kicks, have you ever seen a non-turbo, turbo cluster?
http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l107/hmong337/MR2%20Electric%20Cluster%20Conversion/IMG282.jpg

Step 5: The 91-92 harness does not have a wire for 93+ JDM B8 “vehicle speed pulse generator”. If your car has cruise control, you’re in luck! If your car does not have cruise control, you’re going to have to “hardwire”. That means finding a ground, a power source, running the speed signal wire all the way into the cabin, then to the back of your cluster from the electronic speed sensor at the transmission.

But for you cruise control guys, here is what you do. Find plug “IE3” at the driver’s side kick panel. On “IE3” locate “Pin 6”. The wire should be purple/white. This wire contains the speed signal that you need for the “vehicle speed pulse generator” JDM B8.
http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l107/hmong337/MR2%20Electric%20Cluster%20Conversion/IMG295.jpg

http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l107/hmong337/MR2%20Electric%20Cluster%20Conversion/IMG293.jpg

Here is another look at the whole JDM B8 wire tap:
http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l107/hmong337/MR2%20Electric%20Cluster%20Conversion/JDMB8WireTap.jpg

Here is the wire that I brought up from “IE3 Pin6” to JDM B8
http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l107/hmong337/MR2%20Electric%20Cluster%20Conversion/IMG302.jpg

Step 6: Now on to the meat of the conversion. The wire splicing! Just because I’m a nice guy, I took all these schematics and condensed it into a nice and easy to understand worksheet. You can download it here: Mr2 Cluster Conversion.xlsx – 4shared.com – online file sharing and storage – download (http://www.4shared.com/file/K69l8iw5/Mr2_Cluster_Conversion.html)
http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l107/hmong337/MR2%20Electric%20Cluster%20Conversion/IMG297.jpg

Here’s a closer look at the back of the 93+ JDM cluster:
http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l107/hmong337/MR2%20Electric%20Cluster%20Conversion/IMG150.jpg

93+ JDM Plug A: ***Notice how “A10” is empty? We’ll get to that later…
http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l107/hmong337/MR2%20Electric%20Cluster%20Conversion/IMG156.jpg

93+JDM Plug B:
http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l107/hmong337/MR2%20Electric%20Cluster%20Conversion/IMG157.jpg

93+ JDM Plug C:
http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l107/hmong337/MR2%20Electric%20Cluster%20Conversion/IMG158.jpg

The empty “A10” spot on the JDM plug is the cruise control indicator light. However, the JDM’s did not come with cruise control so they didn’t pin for it. Oddly enough, they still came with the indicator light. So, we’re going to have to pin that spot for our USDM cruise indicator to work. Hopefully you grabbed an extra plug from the junkyard to salvage some pins from. This is where they will be needed. If your USDM did not come with cruise, you can skip this step.

Also, the JDM’s did not come with air bags (not until 97-98, I think???) so we’re going to improvise here. They don’t have an “air bag” indicator light either so I went ahead and used the “hot muffler” light on the JDM cluster. This will now be your “air bag” indicator light. Looks funky, but I love it.

I will say that I am unsure on the “fog light” indicator issue as I don’t have fog lights. But according to what others have done, they spliced JDM B4 (fog light indicator – red) to the fog relay at the front fuse box in the frunk. I’m not 100% sure on how it’s done, but all I know is that you’re going to have to run a wire into the frunk fuse box for a tap somewhere to get the “fog light” indicator to work. Most likely it will be the fog light relay, but don’t quote me on that. It shouldn’t be too hard to figure out.

Also with this conversion, your hazard button will now blink the “high beam” indicator light instead of both left and right turn signals simultaneously. Hopefully that isn’t a big deal to you.

Moving along…

JDM Plug “A” being disassembled to be pinned for A10 “cruise control”:

Since my car doesn’t have ABS, I took the pin from C9  and moved it to A10

***NOTE: I’ve already pinned it in the pictures but I disassembled the plug again for photo purposes.

http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l107/hmong337/MR2%20Electric%20Cluster%20Conversion/IMG162.jpg

http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l107/hmong337/MR2%20Electric%20Cluster%20Conversion/IMG164.jpg

http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l107/hmong337/MR2%20Electric%20Cluster%20Conversion/IMG166.jpg

http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l107/hmong337/MR2%20Electric%20Cluster%20Conversion/IMG167.jpg

http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l107/hmong337/MR2%20Electric%20Cluster%20Conversion/IMG159.jpg

VOILA! We’re now pinned for cruise control.
http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l107/hmong337/MR2%20Electric%20Cluster%20Conversion/IMG168.jpg

Here are the 91-92 USDM plugs:
***NOTE, the 5 longest wires that are laid flat are NOT used.
http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l107/hmong337/MR2%20Electric%20Cluster%20Conversion/IMG270.jpg

For a wiring novice, it looks pretty intimidating! But it’s not all that bad (especially now that I’ve made the conversion spreadsheet for you!). Wiring is not really my forte but I managed to get it done pretty easily.

From this:
http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l107/hmong337/MR2%20Electric%20Cluster%20Conversion/IMG290.jpg

To this:
http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l107/hmong337/MR2%20Electric%20Cluster%20Conversion/IMG308.jpg

To this:
http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l107/hmong337/MR2%20Electric%20Cluster%20Conversion/IMG324.jpg

And that’s it! Just verify that your cluster is working 100% before you put everything back together.

Turbo Removal and Install

1 day to remove and 1 day to install

extension 3/8 and 1/2
Additional things I needed from local auto parts store:
27MM socket
1/2 extension
Universal swival joint 3/8 – mine broke
Coolant/Antifreeze 2 jugs incase
Silicone RV
12MM socket – mine cracked
Oil filter
Synthetic oil

Turbo Removal
take off intake
remove cross bars in engine bay
remove body molding on left and right of trunk
unplug mbc from actuator and compressor
take out intercooler pipes
take off hot pipe
take off coolant lines to turbo with the 2 10mm bolts.  put tray under car to catch coolant leaks
unbolt 27mm oil bolt
remove all hoses that maybe connected to the turbo
drain oil, remove oil filter and dip stick
Remove oxygen sensor on downpipe

Underneath the Car
Remove b-pipe.  later on it will get in the way of removing downpipe
Remove downpipe holder
Unscrew oil line bolts and remove bracket for oil lines
loosen (do not remove) 4 bolts that bolt the turbo to manifold
with the turbo loose wiggle it around to get the angle needed to loosen bolts on downpipe
drain oil

Above the Car
tie a rope to the turbo and secure the rope to an object so it can hold the turbo up.  Turbo can be heavy
Remove remaining bolts on downpipe and remove from turbo
Remove bolts and carefully take out turbo

Turbo Install
Test waste gate actuator by using air compressor to blow are into the actuator hose

Under the Car
Screw in loosely the oil pressure tubing (black metal tubing)
Connect 4 bolts to turbo loosely.
Attach downpipe and tighten.
Attach downpipe mount (the star trek looking symbol with 3 holes)
Attach b-pipe
Was suppose to install engine to turbo support bracket but the holes did not match properly.

Above the Car
Attach coolant pipes (silver looking thing).  Use RV silicone seal and gasket to ensure tight seal
Reinstalled hoses (use soap water or some lubricant to make it easier to fit hoses.  This also reduces the chances of tearing a hose), MBC (clock wise to increase boost, counter clock wise to lower boost), tightened all bolts
Fill car with coolant – do no install everything yet.  This will test to ensure there is nothing leaking.  Filled up oil and new oil filter
Connect hot pipe, air intake, zip ties, intercooler pipes
Changes spark plugs and spark plug wires

Burping cooling system
Fill up coolant until full.  Make sure no leaks under car.  Do not put cap back on
Turn on car and let engine run and keep an eye on temperature gauge.  Coolant system will bubble and burp.  I had to run the car for about 20-30 min.  Squeeze the coolant hose that is by the intercooler gently to get out any air pockets

Posted in MR2

Broken speedometer

Now, if your speedo stopped working it is most likely the rear cable. Here is how to check whether is is the front speedo cable or the rear one.

Step 1.) Take off the rear most underbody panel and you can pry out the speedo cable:

Step 2.) Remove the rubber boot covering the two speedo cables joining and seperate them by holding the rear cable with a 12mm wrench and pull the front off.
Step 3.) Attach a drill to the front cable and spin it counter clockwise and see if the speedo needle jumps or not. If the speedo needle jumps then the problem is with the rear cable, if the speedo cable doesn’t jump then the problem is with the front cable. I had a problem with my rear speedo cable.

Note: The car doesn’t have to be on to spin the cable.

Step 4.) Remove rear speedo cable (if that is the problem), I found laying under the exhaust with my head towards the passengers side gave me the best access to the tranny connector. There is a 10mm bolt holding it down, it is located to the right (pass. side) of the actual speedo cable.

Step 5.) After removing the 10mm with just a normal socket+ratchet you can twist out the speedo assembly, after its loose you can pull it out, which shouldn’t require very much force.

Step 6.) Inspect the rear assembly and see what the problem, in my instance the inner speedo cable had snapped. The cable is also being held on by 2 white brackets located by the drivers side motor mount and underneath behind the rear underbody panel.

Step 7.) Buy a new speedo cable and re-install, I’d start with putting the speedo assembly in the tranny first and then pull the cable up from the top of the engine bay

Here is the routing the speedo cable:

Speedo gear -> Cruise control speed sensor -> Speedo cable, rear -> Speedo cable, front -> Speedometer, instrument cluster

 

http://www.Rockauto.com

Y882 part number for the front cable.
Y849 part number for the rear cable.

MR2 turbo boost

The MR2 turbo stock has a fairly conservative setting for enabling some spirited driving with its turbo.  There is a work around that allows you to get some fairly decent horsepower gains by playing around with the turbo boost.  I’ve been doing quite a bit of research on how to adjust the boost, and there are a couple of options being either a manual or electronic boost control.

I wanted just a simple and cheap way to play around with the boost.  In doing so, what I needed was a way to see how much psi boost the car was running.  Thus picked up a mechanical boost gauge.  It was pretty easy to install.  I put the boost gauge on the pillar mount.  I pulled the vacuum hose from the pillar and under the carpet, then into the engine bay.  I also had to route the MBC from the compressor to the wastegate.  Plain stock, the boost is at 7 psi.  I played around with the boost, and had to make minor increments where turning the MBC clockwise will increase the turbo.

It’s been quite a joy ride feeling how much quicker the car is when you increase the boost.  From what some of the other MR2 experts say, 15psi is probably the max to safely run on a stock car, so that’s what my car’s at now.

Kit’s Miracle Mile 2009 10K Results

Here are the official race results.

Finished 2nd in my division for First Timers… Could have, and should have ran a bit quicker for #1.

                     Kit Callahan's Miracle Mile 10K
                     Fairfax, VA   September 27, 2009
                      ChronoTrack Timing and Scoring
                        by Capital Running Company

                    First Time Racer's Official Results
                   Distances Run Are Unknown at This Time

Place Div/Tot  Name     Lname      Sex Age Hometown         Gun T Net T Pace
===== ======== =================== === === ================ ===== ===== =====
    1   1/3    Bryan Furman        M    22 ARLINGTON VA     48:55 48:43  7:51
    2   1/2    Victor Leung        M    35 FAIRFAX VA       49:19 49:06  7:54 
    3   1/6    Cynthia Chen        F    23 BURKE VA         51:39 51:28  8:17
    4   2/3    Jason Li            M    25 ALEXANDRIA VA    51:37 51:32  8:18
    5   2/6    Megan Harvey        F    22 ARLINGTON VA     53:52 53:40  8:39
    6   3/6    Mimi Do             F    22 FAIRFAX VA       54:25 54:12  8:44
    7   1/2    Diane Behm          F    32 WOODBRIDGE VA    55:49 55:46  8:59
    8   1/4    Farrokh Roushan-Afs M    56 BURKE VA         60:34 60:15  9:42
    9   1/2    Robert France       M    40 ALEXANDRIA VA    64:03 64:03 10:19
   10   4/6    Kate Beal           F    26 FAIRFAX VA       65:23 65:07 10:29
   11   3/3    Mark Eddy           M    27 RESTON VA        77:02 65:35 10:34
   12   1/1    Rachel Cohen        F    16 BURKE VA         73:49 73:29 11:50
   13   5/6    Chelsea Feist       F    23 FALLS CHURCH VA  85:15 73:33 11:51
   14   2/2    Praveen Dodda       M    39 CENTREVILLE VA   75:07 74:51 12:03
   15   2/4    Peter Marinovich    M    51 ROCKVILLE MD     76:59 76:52 12:23
   16   2/2    Christopher Hughes  M    41 LAUREL MD        78:20 78:04 12:34
   17   1/2    Eleanor Schmidt     F    49 FAIRFAX VA       83:54 83:23 13:26
   18   2/2    Elizabeth Skelley   F    46 FALLS CHURCH VA  83:55 83:29 13:27
   19   2/2    Theresa Stawski     F    39 CLIFTON VA       85:49 85:30 13:46
   20   1/2    Jana Dillon         F    50 TRIANGLE VA      86:53 86:16 13:53
   21   3/4    Dennis Dillon       M    50 TRIANGLE VA      89:06 88:27 14:15
   22   2/2    Kathryn Fanelli     F    59 ANNANDALE VA     97:53 97:22 15:41
   23   4/4    Sam Fanelli         M    53 ANNANDALE VA     97:52 97:22 15:41
   24   6/6    Krystal Klingenberg F    24 WASHINGTON DC    103:28 102:51 16:33

MR2 Berk Exhaust

Berk has this 3″ diameter cat back dual exhaust system that I picked up to get a few more horses out of the MR2.  The exhaust looks really nicely packaged.

I was looking to get the exhaust put in by a shop instead of having to do it myself.  The message boards, and the MR2 BGB has some general guidelines that when I read it thought it would be fairly easy

First impressions of the exhaust:

Noise:  It’s definately louder than the stock exhaust system.  At idle it has a nice low humm.  At half throttle when cruising it’s noticeably louder, but not to the point where you can’t have a normal conversation with the passenger.  Gets pretty loud when you stomp on at wide open throttle.

Performance:  I can feel it’s more responsive and feel it pull much quicker.  Haven’t had much time to really put the exhaust through its paces.  But from the manufacturer’s website, it says HP power gains from 20-50WHP vs stock.

Appearance:  Very nice fit and appearance.  Tucks in nicely and the exhaust tips are polished.